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krazieone56
New Member
.22 is fine. No filter close to room temp. Too hot will kill the filter. Best thing to do is not use a syringe filter and buy a complete bottle top filter unit $10. Then buy a cheap hand vaccum pump and filter.
KRAZIEONE
- Status
KRAZIEONE
He must suffer first. He must use a syringe filter hahaha right of passage.
krazieone56
New Member
That's right! LOL. Purple fingers and blisters after filtering only 6ml. Lol
KRAZIEONE
Hey bro, 0.22 micron filters are the industry standard for pharmaceutical companies. So that's generally whats best to filter with. But a lot of people also like to do a 0.45 micron pre-filter. This will help make sure the smaller filter won't gunk up with larger particulates and what not if you don't have an extremely clean source. It should make the smaller filter easier.
And if you're doing a very small amount, syringe filters would probably be best. Though I highly suggest using something like a caulk gun to push the syringe if its even remotely a decent amount and you're going to use syringe filters.
But like Krazie said, its generally best to just buy a disposable filter unit for $10-20 (depending on the size) with a hand pump (will range from $25-100, depending if you get a super cheap one, or a very nice one) if you're just going to do a decent amount that would otherwise be too much for a syringe filter! It makes it MUCH easier! Just don't pump it too much. The disposable cheap filter units are plastic, so they can easily crack/break. And I'm sure no one wants to risk breaking the filter unit and having their shit go all over the place and lose it! Just don't rush it!
Just remember, don't re-use a filter. Use one filter per substance/run. Say you're going to do a run of Test E and EQ, use a separate filter unit for EACH one. You don't want to cross-contaminate or something. And once you use a filter, throw that shit out! Don't re-use it!
Some people warm their solutions up before filtering (though there's a good chance it'll still be warm if you filter it soon after mixing everything with the oils and dissolving the oils, etc), but I'm with Krazie -- I don't pre-heat to filter. I personally believe its best to handle it all when its room temp. Plus, you can damage/degrade the hormones if you heat it up too much. So its best to keep it AWAY from heat after its all mixed and ready to be filtered!
And if you're doing a very small amount, syringe filters would probably be best. Though I highly suggest using something like a caulk gun to push the syringe if its even remotely a decent amount and you're going to use syringe filters.
But like Krazie said, its generally best to just buy a disposable filter unit for $10-20 (depending on the size) with a hand pump (will range from $25-100, depending if you get a super cheap one, or a very nice one) if you're just going to do a decent amount that would otherwise be too much for a syringe filter! It makes it MUCH easier! Just don't pump it too much. The disposable cheap filter units are plastic, so they can easily crack/break. And I'm sure no one wants to risk breaking the filter unit and having their shit go all over the place and lose it! Just don't rush it!
Just remember, don't re-use a filter. Use one filter per substance/run. Say you're going to do a run of Test E and EQ, use a separate filter unit for EACH one. You don't want to cross-contaminate or something. And once you use a filter, throw that shit out! Don't re-use it!
Some people warm their solutions up before filtering (though there's a good chance it'll still be warm if you filter it soon after mixing everything with the oils and dissolving the oils, etc), but I'm with Krazie -- I don't pre-heat to filter. I personally believe its best to handle it all when its room temp. Plus, you can damage/degrade the hormones if you heat it up too much. So its best to keep it AWAY from heat after its all mixed and ready to be filtered!
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
I've never brewed so I think I would try with the cheapest route and stick with a whatman first.
So if I was to try a small batch, like 2g of prop, I could use 1 whatman?
So if I was to try a small batch, like 2g of prop, I could use 1 whatman?
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krazieone56
New Member
Ya. 2 grams at what dosage? 100mg 200mg?
What was ur recipe? Did u take into account proper powder displacement conversion?
KRAZIEONE
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Woah boss... Slow down. Haha. I'm still researching at this point. I was thinking about 100mg/ml and haven't got a recipe picked at this point, but I trust you if want to hand one out.
I assumed that the powder displacement would be figured into the recipe, but like I said, I'm still studying
I assumed that the powder displacement would be figured into the recipe, but like I said, I'm still studying
krazieone56
New Member
Well no unless you get the recipe from someone who has already figured that out for you.
We can all give you good recipes here.
Sorry u seemed like u were all set. So that's why I asked.
KRAZIEONE
Just finished brewing (deca at 250mg/ml).
Made a small 20ml jug just for the ongoing cycle here
A question for you brewers out there: I am using a syringe filter .22 (whatman).
It was really hard to filter just 20 ml. 1 hour to filter 20ml.
Is this normal? I filtered while the oil was at 35°c. Is this too hot? Shall I let it cool some more? Maybe 25°c?
The BA/BB was at 2/15%. And the oil is GSO.
I dont want to brew big batches so is this the best way when doing small batches? Filtering like this and one hour??
Made a small 20ml jug just for the ongoing cycle here
A question for you brewers out there: I am using a syringe filter .22 (whatman).
It was really hard to filter just 20 ml. 1 hour to filter 20ml.
Is this normal? I filtered while the oil was at 35°c. Is this too hot? Shall I let it cool some more? Maybe 25°c?
The BA/BB was at 2/15%. And the oil is GSO.
I dont want to brew big batches so is this the best way when doing small batches? Filtering like this and one hour??
bobsyouruncle
Buff Brother
Just finished brewing (deca at 250mg/ml).
Made a small 20ml jug just for the ongoing cycle here
A question for you brewers out there: I am using a syringe filter .22 (whatman).
It was really hard to filter just 20 ml. 1 hour to filter 20ml.
Is this normal? I filtered while the oil was at 35°c. Is this too hot? Shall I let it cool some more? Maybe 25°c?
The BA/BB was at 2/15%. And the oil is GSO.
I dont want to brew big batches so is this the best way when doing small batches? Filtering like this and one hour??
Yeah it can take that long especially using a .22 were you using a caulk gun? My guess is no and I'm guessing if you were you would have grown impatient and blown the filter if you want to speed things up use a .45 and caulk gun you need to find some fender washers that will sit in the front of the caulk gun and hold the tip of your syringe so it doesn't slip out if the caulk gun as far as heat if the glass beaker that I use for mixing feels luke warm on the outside it's gtg
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Thank you for answering my questions. Allright then. Maybe its time to do bigger batches.
I did not use a caulk gun. Just hands on syringe and steady preasure for an hour. Hard as hell but came out nice slow dripping into my jug. Good to know its normal on a .22 then....
Happy brewing to all
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Thank you for answering my questions. Allright then. Maybe its time to do bigger batches.
I did not use a caulk gun. Just hands on syringe and steady preasure for an hour. Hard as hell but came out nice slow dripping into my jug. Good to know its normal on a .22 then....
Happy brewing to all
Wow. An hour. You guys weren't kidding about the soar fingers.
krazieone56
New Member
Ya honestly even if u r only filtering 20ml a $10 bottle top is worth it. And more accurate.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Looked at them and honestly I'm a little confused. Does that fit over the top of a 10ml vial? Looks to big..
And even if it did, wouldn't I still need a crimper to put my own vial tops on after? Those are pretty high.
Yeah I hear You man. Thanks for all tips by the way.
krazieone56
New Member
LOL. No. U filter from the top to the bottom. The bottom is called the receiver. Then, u draw out the liquid from the reciever w a big syringe and then transfer to your vials.
KRAZIEONE
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
I subscribed to this thread on day 1 but it really got over my head quick. I feel so stupid but here goes. Please have patients with me.
So the receiver is a separate container/not part of the bottle top filter
So the receiver is a separate container/not part of the bottle top filter
krazieone56
New Member
Ur all good. It comes already together. Then also included is a cap. So what u do is hook up ur vaccum tube w a hand pump. Which I got mine at Barbour freight. Is was $8. Then bought a $5 psi gauge. Keeping it at 6-8 psi. Giving it a pump every couple min. U will see it drip thru. Then once its all done. U unhook tubing. Unscrew the bottom. Which is where ur liquid is. Then have cap ready before unscrewing it. Put the cap on. Then, u will need to make a flowhood type cover. So that u can draw out liquid from receiver to large syringe. And avoid any particles falling in it. Then get your sealed sterile vials ready. Then fill. Done.
KRAZIEONE
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Cool. Thanks for your help krazi
krazieone56
New Member
NP bro.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Man. I have looked on lab supply countless times and for what ever reason never clicked on the complete filter tab. I was looking at the top only. I very plainly see how it all goes together now. Lol.
The bottle top filters that Krazie is talking about is pretty much the best thing to do if you're going to be filtering a decent amount at all. Or you could get one of these babies and save in the long run if you're really going to do it 
.
I can't believe you seriously kept pressing that shit by hand for an hour... You definitely need to get a caulk gun if you're going to continue to use syringe filters. It'll make it much easier for you and will go faster. But I really do think the disposable bottle tops will be best for now.
Krazie, you got your hand pump for cheap bro. I've never seen one that's $13 with the gauge... Is it decent at all? Or just a piece of crap that you put up with?
.
I can't believe you seriously kept pressing that shit by hand for an hour... You definitely need to get a caulk gun if you're going to continue to use syringe filters. It'll make it much easier for you and will go faster. But I really do think the disposable bottle tops will be best for now.
Krazie, you got your hand pump for cheap bro. I've never seen one that's $13 with the gauge... Is it decent at all? Or just a piece of crap that you put up with?
krazieone56
New Member
Its great. Harbour freight tools. Its a vaccum bleeder pump. No reason to over buy if it works ya know. Just a pump or two every few min and ur done
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
wowstrongarms
New Member
link to that nifty doodad?The bottle top filters that Krazie is talking about is pretty much the best thing to do if you're going to be filtering a decent amount at all. Or you could get one of these babies and save in the long run if you're really going to do it
I can't believe you seriously kept pressing that shit by hand for an hour... You definitely need to get a caulk gun if you're going to continue to use syringe filters. It'll make it much easier for you and will go faster. But I really do think the disposable bottle tops will be best for now.
Krazie, you got your hand pump for cheap bro. I've never seen one that's $13 with the gauge... Is it decent at all? Or just a piece of crap that you put up with?
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sigma/z290408
The price is different depending where you live. Its cheaper to buy in the US obviously.
Here's a cheaper one if you prefer having the side arm on the flask rather than a separate part (and it doesn't come with a flask, which you can buy cheaper flasks elsewhere. Just make sure they're good quality). I personally prefer having it as a separate part so I can switch out multiple flasks and not have to buy specialized flasks (even though the side-arm doesn't really add much price).
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sigma/z290505
The first one is higher quality/has more but costs more. They're both 47MM filters. You can get smaller or larger. I've seen 90MM and 25MM. I'm sure they carry more but I haven't looked.
I fucking love my filter. I'll never go back to cheap disposable plastic filters or anything like that again lol. You just put the filter right between the scaled cylinder funnel and the outlet port head that are held together by the clamp. Its made to easily sterilize as well. Pretty much the best of the best.
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krazieone56
New Member
I've never had a problem w a water pot. I keep a thermo in it.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
I think a lot of people prefer to do the bare minimum with homebrewing and cut costs as much as possible. A lot of people get into it to save as much money as possible, not to spend a lot of money to make a superior product. A good hot plate with a magnetic stirring setup that gets to a good enough temperature (250C or more -- a lot only go to 100C) cost a good amount of money. Its easy to drop $400+ on a good quality one like that. A lot of people don't even want to spend $10-20 for a 0.45 micron prefilter setup (or 0.22 micron filter, whichever they decide is "unnecessary"). So yeah, you won't meet many people that buy things of that nature. I'm actually looking over a few as I post this lol. I need a new heating source for my setup.
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Ok guys. I'm reading back through from the beginning. I've read 1100 posts this morning. I'm gonna ask a few questions as I go.
I understand being as sterile as possible is key, but if the last thing you do is sterilize it into a sterile vial (via syringe filter) won't that take care of it?
I understand being as sterile as possible is key, but if the last thing you do is sterilize it into a sterile vial (via syringe filter) won't that take care of it?
krazieone56
New Member
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
So with that in mind and the fact that I don't have a hood to work in. I'm concerned with the transfer of gear from a bottle top filter receiver to vial, as it will be exposed momentarily to open air. Should I be concerned or maybe just stick with a syringe filter since I don't have a hood?
krazieone56
New Member
The hood really isn't for air. Its for not letting dust particles get in there. So like I made one cheaply w PVC pipe and 8mil plastic. And then when I'm done I just toss it and make a new one each time I brew.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
krazieone56
New Member
I build it then wipe it down with alcohol prep naps. So its clean.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Thanks bud.
krazieone56
New Member
I mean try the syringe filter. So u know for u. They suck its a bitch.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
Z28blak
Banned
I kinda want to see your custom made hood from PVC
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krazieone56
New Member
AVP
Growing Brother
It's fine bro, and it's more safer than in bottle top filter units
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bobsyouruncle
Buff Brother
You seem to be under the impression you put a needle on the end of a syringe filter and filter it straight into a sterile vial that is not the case you filter it into a large beaker (where it will be exposed to air then pull from that beaker and fill your vials so it is in your best option to use bottletops
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krazieone56
New Member
Safer?
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
AVP
Growing Brother
You pRefer the vacuum filter unites man?
I try nalgene and Corning was fine but it take me a little time to filter 100ml tren and 200 boldenon, I use a break hand pump that I buy from ebay make the work good, what's your method for that man?
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krazieone56
New Member
AVP
Growing Brother
Sorry for my bad English mate, what method you think is the best? I have done both whatman syringe filters and bottletop filtering unites, but for large amount of mls I prefer bottle top unites, you?
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krazieone56
New Member
Ah. Yes. Complete bottle top filter units are the ticket. Easier for sure.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
AVP
Growing Brother
I take 10ml and 50ml sterile vials and put the oil after filtering inside the vials and is g2g, some guys says to not use eo in that vials, I ise 50% grape seed and 50% ethyl oleate and not vaporized the vial after 6 months now is g2g, and filtering is easier too with that method and more smooth, what are you using in your stuff mate? Eo or just gso?
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Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Yes. I did think that was the way. I had seen this on basskiller
Im in no way trying to argue though. I will do what you guys say. I was wanting to use the bottle top anyway.
krazieone56
New Member
U can do it that way. But its just a pain. Bottle tops r cheap and easy whether ur doing 50ml or 500Yes. I did think that was the way. I had seen this on basskiller
Im in no way trying to argue though. I will do what you guys say. I was wanting to use the bottle top anyway.
KRAZIEONE
krazieone56
New Member
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Yeah. I will use bottle top. I saw this a while back and it was just in my head that it was done this way. Glad you guys cleared it up
AVP
Growing Brother
I have done use eo only in hard to break gear, like Dianabol, masteron, tren a, npp but I never let them to much in the vials to stay, I take them in 8-10 weeks so I don't see that in the vials bro
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You can get special stoppers that won't be broken down so bad with EO if it makes contact. Look into silicone stoppers. Also, so long as you have the vial sitting as it should, the EO shouldn't come into contact with the rubber until you draw it to inject -- which it shouldn't be touching it that long. Its the syringe rubber plunger that is more of a concern being broken down. Which is why its recommended do not let EO based solutions sit in the syringe. Load it and inject. Don't pre-load way ahead of time if the solution has EO in it.
Basskiller is an incredible source of information. When I was first learning about homebrewing, he was my main source of information. Maybe some of you guys don't understand why Basskiller is doing what he is in that picture. He is injecting the filtered solution straight into a sterile, pre-sealed vial. This way, the post-filtered solution doesn't come into contact with potential bacteria/spores/whatever in the air. While it certainly helps with the overall sterility, be ready for it to be a bitch to inject it into the vials like that straight through the filter syringe! If you do this, I HIGHLY suggest you setup a caulk gun in a way that you can use it to press the solution through the syringe filter. Just make sure its well enough put together that you don't break the needle or something lol.
When you filter and put it into another container, which you then transfer to the vials, it will come into more air contact (especially if the vials aren't pre-sealed). But it is much easier and less time consuming since you can use bottle top filters. So it comes down to what your setup is like and what you are more concerned about. If you're more concerned about potential bacteria/spores/etc shit getting in, then just inject into the sterile pre-sealed vials. But if you aren't concerned and feel that won't truly impact how sterile the end product is, then just do whats easiest for you.
Basskiller is an incredible source of information. When I was first learning about homebrewing, he was my main source of information. Maybe some of you guys don't understand why Basskiller is doing what he is in that picture. He is injecting the filtered solution straight into a sterile, pre-sealed vial. This way, the post-filtered solution doesn't come into contact with potential bacteria/spores/whatever in the air. While it certainly helps with the overall sterility, be ready for it to be a bitch to inject it into the vials like that straight through the filter syringe! If you do this, I HIGHLY suggest you setup a caulk gun in a way that you can use it to press the solution through the syringe filter. Just make sure its well enough put together that you don't break the needle or something lol.
When you filter and put it into another container, which you then transfer to the vials, it will come into more air contact (especially if the vials aren't pre-sealed). But it is much easier and less time consuming since you can use bottle top filters. So it comes down to what your setup is like and what you are more concerned about. If you're more concerned about potential bacteria/spores/etc shit getting in, then just inject into the sterile pre-sealed vials. But if you aren't concerned and feel that won't truly impact how sterile the end product is, then just do whats easiest for you.
AVP
Growing Brother
Thanks for all that good information bro, my way and I didn't have any problem with that is when I finish with the beaker and my gear is ready I let it inside the boiling water to cool down the temperature, when it's com I put it in my bottle top unit, after the filtration is done with my hand pump I take a sterile 100ml syringe and take the gear from the bottle and inject it asap to the sterile 100ml vial, after that is g2g, I never let the oil to touch the rubber stopper or let my gear to the syringe too long, I hope I am write with that
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Hey brother I cant find how to pm can you shoot me one I have a question for you
krazieone56
New Member
U can't pm because u don't have 50 posts yet.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
Oh right on, I appreciate that. Im still new to the whole forum thing. Correct me if I say anything out of line. I guess I need to put myself out there more. I guess Let me start off by saying whats up fellas!
AVP
Growing Brother
bobsyouruncle
Buff Brother
Yes. I did think that was the way. I had seen this on basskiller
Im in no way trying to argue though. I will do what you guys say. I was wanting to use the bottle top anyway.
Ah I see sorry the syringe filters I've used in the past did not have the male luer lock on them
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All good bro. You know a LOT so I figured something was up with that. I was just a bit confused by people didn't get what he was doing lol. Now I know why.
No problem at all bro. I'm here to learn but I love helping others too. Anytime I can help, I will gladly do it.
And yeah, I get what you're saying. You mix it with heat and then filter it, followed by using a syringe to inject it from the filtration bottle into the sterile vials so it doesn't hit the air after filtering it. I get what you're saying bro. That also works too. It can just sometimes be a bit tricky for some people to make sure it doesn't hit air when doing it like that. But it sounds like you got it figured out fairly well.
All good bro. You know a LOT so I figured something was up with that. I was just a bit confused by people didn't get what he was doing lol. Now I know why.
Edit: Shit, I realized I put my response in AVP's quote in my post. Fixed.
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Yeah bobs, I wondered about it cause I looked at some online and couldn't see a luer lock connection for the bottom end. Screw it, as cheap and fast as the bottle tops are, I can't see not using one. I was just concerned about sterility but sounds like you guys aren't having any trouble.
Man this thread is huge. I read for a couple hours this morning and still ain't got half way though
Yeah bro just do what AVP brought up. Use the bottle tops and then inject it into the sterile vials. It'll be quicker and just as easy. Some people just move it around from bottle to bottle and expose it to air during that time. But you can prevent it from hitting the air if you're really concerned about it.
AVP
Growing Brother
Bro I don't even open the sterile cup, I put a needle in the upper bottle to have pressure and a 100ml syringe in the bottom and take all my gear into the syringe, after that I put it in to my sterile 100ml vial and it's done, no air to touch at all ;-)
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Bad Juju
EVO V.I.P
Yeah, but the cheapest one I've ever seen was $150. And a lot of people don't really want to spend a lot of money with homebrewing.
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
krazieone56
New Member
Ya. I would go with the .22 version tho
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Yeah. Saw that after I posted
disposable
Bro thats a bottle top filter... Not a bottle top dispenser lol.
This is a dispenser.
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Misread the post. Ha
Bad Juju
EVO V.I.P
i spent 5 bills on mine
Which one was it if you don't mind me asking?
lol I figured bro. Don't worry about it. But yeah, a bottle top dispenser might not be bad for those of you that are really concerned about the sterility when dispensing. Of course you will still need to use unsealed vials, but they're still pretty nifty and can help a ton.
Do most of you just use your oven to sterilize your equipment? I always felt the oven wasn't nearly good enough to truly consider something sterilized all the way... At least on its own.
krazieone56
New Member
I use the oven to sterilize the beaker and stir rods. Then wipe down w alcohol swabs. Then re bake. Then use.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
What temperature and how long?
krazieone56
New Member
As hi as oven goes like 500 for and hour. Its plenty sufficient. Never had any issue w sterility.
KRAZIEONE
AVP
Growing Brother
krazieone56
New Member
AVP
Growing Brother
I put the beakers and the other equipment on a baby sterilizator with hot air, works fine for me;-) I didn't understand you sorry, I was thinking that you put the gear and bake it
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krazieone56
New Member
AVP
Growing Brother
krazieone56
New Member
Oh no. I was just making a general statement. Not at you.
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
AVP
Growing Brother
Baby sterilizer? Do you mind posting a pic or link to one? I'm wondering what temperature it reaches, etc.
Definitely true. I take it you just use alcohol for the rubber stopper and what not before you use it? Or do you just use sterile pre-sealed vials? There has been so much talk in this thread I can't remember if you addressed this before or not lol.
krazieone56
New Member
I use sealed sterile vials. I have thought about capping but I want a clave before I do that
KRAZIEONE
KRAZIEONE
AVP
Growing Brother
Bro I use that for beakers rubber stoppers and vials, it killed all bacteria and spores in 30min ;-)
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Just to tell you before the rest of the post bro, this post is more aimed at anyone looking into using an autoclave and buying unsealed vials bro, I know you already know all of this. I'm just taking the chance to tell/inform others about this since you brought up wanting to buy one before going the unsealed vial route.
Yeah I completely understand bro. I bought my autoclave before I ever decided to fuck with unsealed vials. Unfortunately, some equipment that's able to be used in a clave costs extra (due to needing to be higher quality and be made of certain material so it won't degrade/rust/whatever). When you buy your crimper (when that time comes), be SURE that it is clave-able. The cheaper ones aren't that well made from what I understand, and aren't made to be sterilized by a clave. The ones that can be claved seem to run around $200 (versus $140-160 for the lower end ones that aren't supposed to be). But these are truly high grade. And will last much longer (some of the cheaper ones have a lot of plastic that can break, rendering it useless etc).
A lot of people I've talked to about this didn't realize that a lot of scientific equipment needs to be made a certain way to be able to be sterilized PROPERLY by certain equipment (no covered areas that can't be reached, odd edges, bumps/depressions [it has to be COMPLETELY flat], etc). Clean rooms are the same way. There's extremely specific protocol concerning precisely how the area has to be setup/made and what it can/can't have. Equipment that needs to be sterilized for a clean room (which is what autoclaves are used for) have to follow a lot of the same principles. The crimper I was discussing for claving uses stainless steel and other high end materials so it won't degrade/rust/break/crack or anything when used in a clave. And if you decide to buy a bottle top dispenser, you HAVE to make sure you can disassemble it and it EXPLICITLY says it can be autoclaved.
Don't forget, an autoclave is much more than just an "oven that has water" lol. It gets to a VERY high pressure (MUCH higher than any pressure cooker that your mother/wife has -- so don't compare them), which is what makes it so the steam and heat work faarrr better together at sterilizing and killing EVERYTHING. So you want to make SURE you don't get something cheap and plastic that will crack/break from the pressure of the clave.
Its a great decision to buy and use a clave, as it will ensure everything is completely sterilized (whereas the dry heat from an oven + alcohol isn't 100% guaranteed to completely sterilize everything). Unfortunately, you'll end up spending more for higher quality equipment.
Be ready to have up to several $1000 set aside for everything if you decide to buy an autoclave, high quality crimper, high quality bottle top dispenser, the bottles, caps, etc. If you get a small autoclave you can save money. But you also don't want to buy one and have it too small to sterilize all your equipment!!! So be sure to measure your equipment that you need to sterilize before buying one. Make sure everything will fit in it. You may end up spending far less, depending on what kind of deals are running, what equipment you can find used, and what size of everything you need (plus if you already have some of the shit). I'm just warning anyone looking into going this route... don't be surprised if you find the total bill for everything more on the high end.
Bro I use that for beakers rubber stoppers and vials, it killed all bacteria and spores in 30min ;-)
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Is that plastic?? How can it guarantee that in 30 minutes? That's what an autoclave does (though some can do it in 15 minutes). How hot does it get? Is it pressurized? How much do those cost? I just can't imagine something plastic being just as effective as an expensive stainless steel autoclave (that has to be BOLTED down so the top doesn't fly off due to how high of pressure/heat it gets to).... Does it actually guarantee to kill EVERYTHING? Or just certain viruses/bacteria?!
If that thing works as well as a bigass stainless steel autoclave (which I seriously can't see how it could)... then consider my mind blown lol.
bobsyouruncle
Buff Brother
So maybe someone has experience and can chime in I'm planning on brewing some test prop at 100mg/ml and also a small batch brewed at 150mg/ml I am thinking about options as far as a carrier is concerned and I'm thinking mct oil would be the best because it is so thin and it dissipates slower than other carriers so I'm hoping to fully eliminate pip and use a 29g slin pin ed w/o any e/o so does anyone have any knowledge about this?
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Cipp21
Growing Brother
MCT oil is going to be your best bet and will definitely make it through 29g without a problem, but as far as holding at 150 I'm not too sure. Never tried anything higher than 100 without EO.
You have problems with EO? I personally love it. EO+MCT is basically water and I've NEVER had pip with it.
bobsyouruncle
Buff Brother
No I'm fine with e/o but I'm not just brewing this for myself and I know some guys are sensitive I personally like the stuff I'll probably do an e/o blend on that small batch dosed at 150
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bobsyouruncle
Buff Brother
Have you brewed prop in mct at 150? Or was it a different carrier ?
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High-Oleic Safflower and/or MCT (if its coconut, be sure to get FRACTIONATED or REFINED coconut oil -- fractionated is preferable). You want the oil to be thick enough. MCT is a great bet, but Safflower is also another great option. We discussed a few theories concerning the carrier oil's importance for PIP and what not a while back. My top 3 choices have been MCT, HO Saff, and CSO.
Loadcoil78
Buff Brother
Looking back through the thread and found some cut/paste recipes for test prop, but they are figured at a displacement of .75ml/g. I read that the proper displacement for test prop is .909. Which do you guys use? And do y'all go 2%/20% on the BA/BB ratio?
krazieone56
New Member
It really depends on the ratio.
How concentrated. As a rule I always go with 3% ba on normal brews. 5% on suspensions. And the bb 15-20% depending on dosage. But sometimes when doing the standard recipes like 100mg/ml prop you don't even need the bb. Or if you do as little as 10%.
KRAZIEONE
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